In the lap of Luxor

Monday, Nov. 9 -- No Internet access for five days, so there's a lot to catch up on. Here goes.

Overnight train from Cairo to Luxor takes 10 hours. Few of us get any sleep. We're awakened at 4:30 (!) and given a breakfast that's a little heavy on the carbs: a piece of Wonderbread, a 4-day-old croissant, a roll and a piece of cake; two pieces of cheese, some butter and tea or coffee. Mmmmm, delish. I actually took a picture because it was so revolting. The scenery, though, is interesting. There's a great deal of green, including palm trees, sugar cane, cauliflower and corn. In other words, although I expected nothing but sand, the area is quite fertile. We pass small villages, awake at 5 a.m., donkeys drawing carts, men farming, kids on the way to school.

At Luxor, we're taken in horse-drawn carriages through the town, whose name derives from "palaces." My driver is Mohammed, his horse is Abdullah. Karen is driven by Ali, whose horse is Rambo. By 7, we're at the Temple of Karnak, built more than 2000 years ago. Cute guide named Shushi, who calls us "my guys." The complex actually housed 13 temples on 64 acres. Highlights: it's the first time a horse is depicted on a wall, the Great Hypostyle Hall contained 134 columns, each representing a papyrus, the "sacred lake" has remained full of water since the beginning because the Egyptians built four canals from the Nile to the lake. If you circle a giant scarab seven times, your wishes will come true. Oh, and Queen Hatshepsut built a jacuzzi there.

We check into our quarters for the next four nights, a big floating hotel called the Ra, the only ship on the river built in England. It's quite nice, four stories high with pools on the top deck. Each room is equipped with a TV, bathroom and french doors opening to a balcony. I just never imagined I'd spend any part of my life floating down the Nile, but here we are.

Ussama, who is extremely personable and charming, takes us to the west bank in a water taxi and we take a half-hour donkey ride. While not as painful as four hours on an elephant, the thighs definitely objected. As a camel caravan passed by, one smart aleck kid yelled, "Egyptian Ferrari!" Dozens of local children emerged from their houses to wave, yell hello and beg for spare change. Dinner was at a local place Ussama knew, and it was great. Tahini, deep-fried eggplant, pita bread, rice, and in individual cast iron pots, beef, chicken, veggies and white beans.

But the day's not over. It ends in Luxor Museum, much nicer than the Egyptian Museum. A couple of mummies on display, more statues of more gods, funeral boats, yada, yada. I'm pooped.