Odds 'n' ends

Random thoughts, factoids and observations, in no particular order

Security: A mixed bag. Metal detectors are located just inside the entrance of every hotel. Some also have conveyor belt baggage checks. However, the metal detectors ring an alarm with every person who passes through, and no one reacts. In other words, they’re apparently all for show. Guests can also walk around the metal detectors, without any consequences. Throughout Egypt, the “tourism police” are stationed behind metal plates, maybe three feet high, with a little square cut-out; if the soldier ducks down, he can see through the cut-out. It seemed pretty obvious, however, that the bad guys could just aim for the soldier’s head.

Although we didn’t experience it ourselves, we’re told that tourists who go to Abu Simbel by bus are required to be part of a convoy, escorted by some kind of security personnel. In Jordan, soldiers were present outside every embassy and we were told not to take any photos. The American embassy in Amman is like a fortress, guarded by both Jordanian military and U.S. Marines.

I never once worried about my safety.

Call to prayer: Five times a day, starting around 4:30 a.m. The exact times depend on the position of the sun. Very elaborate undertaking, involving washing, prostrating (halfway and then all the way down on knees), shoulder-to-shoulder in the mosque. The majority of Muslims seem to be quite devout.

Mark on forehead: Many men have callouses in the middle of their foreheads from bowing their heads during prayer. Not the prettiest look, but a sign of great devotion.

Ps and Ds: There are none in the Egyptian language, so they have difficulty pronouncing words like “pounds” (bounds) and “duck” (buck).

Cell phones: Everywhere. They ring constantly. They look particularly incongruous when used by covered women.

Directionally challenged: Upper Egypt is the south, represented by the lotus, and Lower Egypt is the north, represented by the papyrus. All because the Nile flows north.

Smoking: They all do it. We forget what it’s like to dine in a restaurant that still allows smoking. Ashtrays on every table.

Most common phrase: "I wonder where I put my ...." Karen and I decided our ship really will come in if we can invent some kind of organizational tool that would enable us to remember where we put our battery charger, flashlight, deodorant, socks, sleeping sack, money converter, etc. etc. The list is endless and we spent an inordinate amount of time searching our luggage for STUFF.

Celebration: When Egypt beat Algeria in the soccer game, some celebrants lit cans of insect spray (instead of hairspray, as kids do at home on Halloween). Seemed awfully dangerous.

Mummy tummy: AKA Pharoah’s Revenge. Everyone had at least a little bout; immediately cured by Antinel, the local version of Immodium.

Animals: Donkeys are true beasts of burden and outnumber both water buffalo and camels. It sure is exciting to see camels wandering both the streets and the desert.

Egyptian traffic: Is it possible it’s worse than Hanoi? Maybe. Perhaps the main difference is that in Egypt, people drive cars rather than motorbikes. No apparent lanes, no streetlights, no cops, no rules. Traffic jams include cars, trucks, buses, camels, donkeys. People cross the street wherever they want; in fact, they also cross the “freeways.” If they want to catch a bus, they just stand in the street and wait for a minivan, side door open, to slow down. I don’t know how they know where the minivan is going. The majority of cars are little more than heaps. Headlights are not used. When we asked Ussama why, he said, “What do you need headlights for?” Gas costs 20 cents/gallon; the country produces enough for its own needs and does not rely on any imported oil.

Jordanian traffic: Orderly, with traffic lights that are observed. Lanes exist and are observed. Headlights are used. Cars are new and in working order.

Pollution/trash: Egypt is horribly polluted; I imagine it’s like China. Although we were told the heavy smog was due to farmers burning rice hulls, I suspect it’s like that all the time. Smokestacks were belching black stuff into the air. And there’s no trash pickup, so the banks of the Nile are akin to a dump. Sometimes we saw people picking through trash; other times animals were feeding there.

Children: A baby is born every 10 seconds in Cairo. Children are everywhere, frequently waving at the tourists, or begging.

Baksheesh: Hands out for tips in Egypt. You even have to pay to go to the bathroom.

6th of October City: A new city just outside Cairo that commemorates Egypt's military success at the start of the 1973 Yom Kippur War. I thought it commemorates Nell’s birthday. It’s very affluent and is home to several universities. It’s the only place in Egypt I saw nice cars.

Our hotels: Grand Pyramids, Giza; Ra (Nile boat); Zoser, Giza (much nicer than the Grand Pyramids); Morganland, Mt. Sinai; Gulden Tulip, Amman (apparently part of a chain); Amra Palace, Petra; Days Inn, Amman (much nicer than any Days Inn in the U.S.)

Eid: A celebration kind of like Thanksgiving, from Nov. 27-30. Lots of sheep for sale and slaughter.

Jordan: A quiet house in a noisy neighborhood. Our guide, Majdi, loves his country and his king, and presented a nice picture of his homeland. It’s at the intersection of Africa, Europe and Asia, and actually is located in Asia. A country of 6 million, it’s known for, among other things, excellent medical care and strong education. The so-called Amman Message preaches tolerance and the kingdom has good relations with its neighbors in the Middle East. Quite westernized and a good deal more expensive than Egypt. Its wealth, however, does not come from oil, although Amman is home to many Arabs from Saudi Arabia and other oil-producing states. Ten minutes from Israel; 15 minutes from Saudi Arabia.

Names: Issa (Jesus) and Mousa (Moses) are the most common Muslim names. True Muslims recognize three prophets – Jesus, Moses and Mohammed. Jihad means hard work or extra effort, in addition to holy war.

Water: Majdi said the principal conflict of the Middle East is over water, not territory. In Jordan, due to a severe water shortage, there are three plans to boost supplies. The Two Seas Channel will connect the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, a desalination plant is in the works in Aqaba, and a giant aquifer at Disi holds enough water to meet the country’s needs for the next 100 years. At present, water is pumped to big tanks atop buildings in Amman once a week; on the roofs, you can see the tanks, solar panels to heat the water, and satellite dishes.

Books: Seven Pillars of Wisdom, T.E. Lawrence; The Arab Revolution, author unknown; Married to a Bedouin, Marguerite van Geldermalsen.